Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar)

Not only a place to get exotic spices, this market, estabblished in the early 1`7th century is a good place to stock up on miscellaneous aphrodisiacs.

It was built as pary of the Yeni Camii (New Mosque) complex, which dominates the waterfront at the foot of the Golden Horn. It was built with money paid as duty on Egypyian products, hence the name in Turkish. In English it is usually called the Spice Bazaar.

The next entry will be on the Yeni Camii.

Entrance to the Bazaar, 20 Nov 1990

Between the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar - shopping streets

The streets between the Covered (Grand) Bazaar and the Spice (Egyptian) Bazaar down by the Golden Horn are always thronged with people. You can buy every imaginable household item in these streets.

Damping down the dust outside the shop.

1989 - no difference to the photos above which are from May 2006

Kapalı Çarşısı (Grand Bazaar)

Istanblue

My friend Tuncay has a shop right in the wall of the Blue Mosque. We met Tuncay when we were living in Istanbul in the early '90s when he had a carpet shop in the Covered Bazaar. Several years ago he moved out to this location, which is really gorgeous. We have several kilims, sumaks and afshars bought from Tuncay, who like the best of carpet sellers is part psychologist, part philosopher!

The view from upstairs at Tuncay's shop, looking out the little window.

Blue Mosque

So many words have been written about this mosque, and of course, comparisons made betwen it and Aya Sofya (usually in the latter's favour), that it's pretty impossible to add more. I do love visiting here because it is a working mosque.

This Turkish style of mosque has been copied in one of Sydney's mosques - the Gallipoli Mosque at Auburn. It serves a mainly Turkish community.

Aya Sofya

Looking towards the Aya Sofya from the Blue Mosque.

Interior gallery



View looking out from gallery

Aya Sofya 13 July 1989

Arguably İstanbul's most famous building. There are a million photos of it, so in my most recent trip I tried to take some "different" ones, hence the dark spaces in the Gallery.

Inside is simply astounding, and I stare in awe at the architectural miracle that enabled this to be finished in 537. How does that central dome soar above with seemingly no support? [By the way, it has been replaced several times after earthquakes] The answer is that it is supported by 40 massive ribs constructed of special hollow bricks, made in Rhodes, resting on four huge pillars concealed in the interior walls. Almost 1000 years later, the great architect, Sinan, used the same technique in designing the Süleymaniye Mosque.

It was the greatest Christian church of all until 1453, when Mehmet the Conqueror turned it into a mosque. Being equally as significant to Christians and Moslems, I think Atatürk did the right thing turning it into a museum in 1934, so everyone can appreciate its magnificence.

Uncovering the mosaics (covered in plaster, but not destroyed, during the Islamic period) and restoration continues, and there is usually scaffolding, but that does not detract from a visit to this World Heritage site.

Topkapı Palace

I didn't visit Topkapı this time. It's well worth it for the first, or second time visitor, but in this trip there was limited time. Here's some photos from 1990 and 1991.

Topkapı was begun in 1453 by Memhmet the Conqueror, and housed Sultans until Mahmut II (1808-1839), when the sultans built newer, more European style palaces along the Bosphorus. Along the way Topkapı was home to Selim the Sot, who drowned in the bath after drinking too much champagne, Ibrahim the Mad and Roxelana, the beautiful partner of Süleyman the Magnificent. And centuries of intrigue and espionage.

Inside the Harem - the Imperial Antechamber (Hünkar Sofası)

The area of the Fourth Court

Topkapı Gardens

Museum of the Ancient Orient

In the same complex as the Archaeology Museum and Tiled Kiosk, it houses treasures of pre-Hittite and pre-Islamic empires.

A copy of the oldest peace treaty, the Kadesh Treaty, drawn up in the 13th century BC between the Egyptians and Hittites.




These glazed panels once lined the processional street and Ishtar gate of ancient Babylon from the time of Nebuchadnezzar II (605 - 562 BC)

Tiled Kiosk (çinli Kösk) of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror

Until recently, closed for renovation, I was thrilled to finally see this museum. Turkish ceramic art is one of my favourite things.

The Lonely Planet Istanbul Guide says:
This building is thought to be the oldest surviving non-religious building in İstanbul. It was built in 1472 as an outer pavilion of the Topkapı Palace. It was used for watching sporting events. The recessed doorway area is covered with tiles – sometimes with white calligraphy on blue. The geometric patterns and colour of the tiles –turquoise, white, black – on the façade show Selcuk influence.

Much of the interior of the kiosk is covered with triangular and hexagonal tiles of brown, green, yellow and blue.

Much of the exhibition features İznik tiles from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Archaeological Museum

This is one of my favourite museums. It’s very close to the much more popularly visited Topkapı Palace.

This is part of the chain that the Byzantines stretched across the Golden Horn to keep out the Ottomans as they laid siege to Constantinople in 1453. It forms part of the İstanbul Through the Ages exhibition. (Actually, last time I saw this I thought it as at the Askerı (Military) museum, but things might have moved around - or there's two bits; certainly the Archaeological Museum has undergone a massive refurbishment in recent times - I always liked it, now it is outstanding.)

Part of the Tiled Kiosk, and the cafe

Giant earthenware pots, and worker cleaning the cases.

Piero at the cafe, 13 August 1989.

İstanbul transport - tram

İstanbul transport - big buses

Bus routes are numerous. This is the bus terminus at Taksim. Tickets can be bought at the white booths on the left.

İstanbul transport - Metro

The metro is the newest form of mass transport. Alas, as yet, there is only one line. It is fast, clean, efficient and comfortable. This is 4.Levent station. Iznik tile murals are a feature of the metro stations. At Aksaray the metro connects with the light rail, which alllows for airport access.

İstanbul transport - taxi

These little yellow taxis dart in and out of the traffic all over the place. Compared to many other cities they are reasonably affordable way to get about, at least for visitors. The density of traffic can be frustrating though.

İstanbul transport - Tünel

An underground funicular built in the late 1800s, Tünel allowed European businessmen to travel the steep incline from Karaköy (Galata) without tiring themselves.