Gülhane Park

24 May 2006

The View from Hamdi

Hamdi Et Lokantası (Hamdi Meat Restaurant) is one of the best restaurants in Istanbul, not last for its spectacular views across to Galata, up the Golden Horn, and down to Old Istanbul. And a FABULOUS place to rest weary feet for a cold beer and smoe food in the afternoon.

It was from Hamdi's terrace that I took the shots of Galata and Yeni Camii.

Galata Bridge

Some pictures of the Galata Bridge as it is now (well, May 2006) and, below, the older bridge which burned down in 1992.

The current bridge is the 5th Galata Bridge.

Can anyone who knows Istanbul guess where the first photo was taken from??? I shall reveal it soon.

12 August 1989

A bit of Paris in Istanbul

This stand is located in the area outside the Yeni Cami.

Corn for sale

In the area outside the New Mosque

Yeni Camii (New Mosque)

New Mosque (left) and Spice Bazaar (right)

New Mosque and Spice Bazaar from Hamdi restaurant



New mosque (foreground), and Süleymaniye mosque on hill behind

Interior of New Mosque, with blue Iznik tiles

Looking out fron the New Mosque

Started in 1597 and completed in 1663. This mosque is very prominent, being located near the waterfront at one end of the Galata Bridge.

Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar)

Not only a place to get exotic spices, this market, estabblished in the early 1`7th century is a good place to stock up on miscellaneous aphrodisiacs.

It was built as pary of the Yeni Camii (New Mosque) complex, which dominates the waterfront at the foot of the Golden Horn. It was built with money paid as duty on Egypyian products, hence the name in Turkish. In English it is usually called the Spice Bazaar.

The next entry will be on the Yeni Camii.

Entrance to the Bazaar, 20 Nov 1990

Between the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar - shopping streets

The streets between the Covered (Grand) Bazaar and the Spice (Egyptian) Bazaar down by the Golden Horn are always thronged with people. You can buy every imaginable household item in these streets.

Damping down the dust outside the shop.

1989 - no difference to the photos above which are from May 2006

Kapalı Çarşısı (Grand Bazaar)

Istanblue

My friend Tuncay has a shop right in the wall of the Blue Mosque. We met Tuncay when we were living in Istanbul in the early '90s when he had a carpet shop in the Covered Bazaar. Several years ago he moved out to this location, which is really gorgeous. We have several kilims, sumaks and afshars bought from Tuncay, who like the best of carpet sellers is part psychologist, part philosopher!

The view from upstairs at Tuncay's shop, looking out the little window.

Blue Mosque

So many words have been written about this mosque, and of course, comparisons made betwen it and Aya Sofya (usually in the latter's favour), that it's pretty impossible to add more. I do love visiting here because it is a working mosque.

This Turkish style of mosque has been copied in one of Sydney's mosques - the Gallipoli Mosque at Auburn. It serves a mainly Turkish community.

Aya Sofya

Looking towards the Aya Sofya from the Blue Mosque.

Interior gallery



View looking out from gallery

Aya Sofya 13 July 1989

Arguably İstanbul's most famous building. There are a million photos of it, so in my most recent trip I tried to take some "different" ones, hence the dark spaces in the Gallery.

Inside is simply astounding, and I stare in awe at the architectural miracle that enabled this to be finished in 537. How does that central dome soar above with seemingly no support? [By the way, it has been replaced several times after earthquakes] The answer is that it is supported by 40 massive ribs constructed of special hollow bricks, made in Rhodes, resting on four huge pillars concealed in the interior walls. Almost 1000 years later, the great architect, Sinan, used the same technique in designing the Süleymaniye Mosque.

It was the greatest Christian church of all until 1453, when Mehmet the Conqueror turned it into a mosque. Being equally as significant to Christians and Moslems, I think Atatürk did the right thing turning it into a museum in 1934, so everyone can appreciate its magnificence.

Uncovering the mosaics (covered in plaster, but not destroyed, during the Islamic period) and restoration continues, and there is usually scaffolding, but that does not detract from a visit to this World Heritage site.

Topkapı Palace

I didn't visit Topkapı this time. It's well worth it for the first, or second time visitor, but in this trip there was limited time. Here's some photos from 1990 and 1991.

Topkapı was begun in 1453 by Memhmet the Conqueror, and housed Sultans until Mahmut II (1808-1839), when the sultans built newer, more European style palaces along the Bosphorus. Along the way Topkapı was home to Selim the Sot, who drowned in the bath after drinking too much champagne, Ibrahim the Mad and Roxelana, the beautiful partner of Süleyman the Magnificent. And centuries of intrigue and espionage.

Inside the Harem - the Imperial Antechamber (Hünkar Sofası)

The area of the Fourth Court

Topkapı Gardens

Museum of the Ancient Orient

In the same complex as the Archaeology Museum and Tiled Kiosk, it houses treasures of pre-Hittite and pre-Islamic empires.

A copy of the oldest peace treaty, the Kadesh Treaty, drawn up in the 13th century BC between the Egyptians and Hittites.




These glazed panels once lined the processional street and Ishtar gate of ancient Babylon from the time of Nebuchadnezzar II (605 - 562 BC)

Tiled Kiosk (çinli Kösk) of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror

Until recently, closed for renovation, I was thrilled to finally see this museum. Turkish ceramic art is one of my favourite things.

The Lonely Planet Istanbul Guide says:
This building is thought to be the oldest surviving non-religious building in İstanbul. It was built in 1472 as an outer pavilion of the Topkapı Palace. It was used for watching sporting events. The recessed doorway area is covered with tiles – sometimes with white calligraphy on blue. The geometric patterns and colour of the tiles –turquoise, white, black – on the façade show Selcuk influence.

Much of the interior of the kiosk is covered with triangular and hexagonal tiles of brown, green, yellow and blue.

Much of the exhibition features İznik tiles from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Archaeological Museum

This is one of my favourite museums. It’s very close to the much more popularly visited Topkapı Palace.

This is part of the chain that the Byzantines stretched across the Golden Horn to keep out the Ottomans as they laid siege to Constantinople in 1453. It forms part of the İstanbul Through the Ages exhibition. (Actually, last time I saw this I thought it as at the Askerı (Military) museum, but things might have moved around - or there's two bits; certainly the Archaeological Museum has undergone a massive refurbishment in recent times - I always liked it, now it is outstanding.)

Part of the Tiled Kiosk, and the cafe

Giant earthenware pots, and worker cleaning the cases.

Piero at the cafe, 13 August 1989.

İstanbul transport - tram

İstanbul transport - big buses

Bus routes are numerous. This is the bus terminus at Taksim. Tickets can be bought at the white booths on the left.

İstanbul transport - Metro

The metro is the newest form of mass transport. Alas, as yet, there is only one line. It is fast, clean, efficient and comfortable. This is 4.Levent station. Iznik tile murals are a feature of the metro stations. At Aksaray the metro connects with the light rail, which alllows for airport access.

İstanbul transport - taxi

These little yellow taxis dart in and out of the traffic all over the place. Compared to many other cities they are reasonably affordable way to get about, at least for visitors. The density of traffic can be frustrating though.

İstanbul transport - Tünel

An underground funicular built in the late 1800s, Tünel allowed European businessmen to travel the steep incline from Karaköy (Galata) without tiring themselves.

İstanbul transport - dolmuşes

These old style dolmuşes (mentioned in the entry on mini-buses) were at the ferry terminal in Sarıyer. Note the big black on blue "D" sign. That indicates a Dolmuş stop.

Photo taken 8 Sep 1991.

İstanbul transport - minibuses

Minibuses waiting at Kadıköy

Inside a minibus - the driver places change on the fluffy rug so it doesn't slide off. He accepts money and makes change which is passed down the bus hand-to-hand, usually while driving (weaving in and out of traffic)

In all but a few places, minibuses have replaced the older dolmuşes*. They ply fixed routes, at minimal cost. Although the routes are a bit of a mystery to the uninitiated, if you've got a modicum of Turkish language skill you can generally find out which bus will get you to which destination.

The minibuses above are waiting at the terminus at Kadıkoy on the Asian side of the Bosporus, right near the ferry wharves, and extend out to the suburbs of the sprawling Asian side of the city. In future blogs we'll visit one of these Asian residential areas where we used to live.

The dolmuş - which literally means 'stuffed' - is a kind of shared taxi which takes a set route for a fixed fare, and leaves when full. Many Istanbul dolmuş are/ were magnificent old American cars like Chevvies. Here's a photo of one. And a collection. There are still such "shared taxis" but nowadays they are more likely to be a minivan.

İstanbul transport - ferries

These ferries ply the waters around Istanbul and are always a great way to travel. You can usually buy snacks and tea on board from mobile vendors, and in winter, a particularly popular Istanbul drink - salep, a drink made from salep flour, which is made from the dried, ground tubers of a species of orchid.

İstiklal Caddesi 8 - ice creams

A good way to finish an Istiklal stroll.

İstiklal Caddesi 7 - Markiz

From Lonely Planet Guide, Istanbul:

"In Pera's heydey, there was no more glamorous spot to be seen than Patisserie Lebon...The place to enjoy gateaux and gossip, it was favoured by the city's European elite, who dressed to kill when they popped in for afternoon tea...
Part of the patiserie's attraction was its gorgeous art-nouveau interior. Four large tiled wall panels had been designed around the theme of the four seasons by Alexandre Vallaury, the architect of the Pera Palas Oteli, and were vreated in France. Unfortunately, only two (Autumn and Spring) survived the trip from France - they have adorned the walls ever since. With chandeliers, fragile china, gleaming wooden furniture and decorative tiled floor, the place was as stylish as its clientele.
In 1940 the Lebon was taken over by Avedis Cakır, who renamed it Patisserie Markiz. It continued to trade until the 1960s, when Pera's decline and a lack of customers led to its closure. The building was boarded up and left as it had been. In 1977 it was added to the country's register of historial buildings, following lobbying by local artists and writers.
In late 2003 the patisserie reopened, and the frontage onto
İstiklal Cad has been magnificently restored and is once again serving delicious gateaux and tea to İstanbul's elite" (and tourists like me!).

İstiklal Caddesi 6

The nearest I got to seeing the
İstiklal Cad tram on the day of my visit was the tram tracks. The tram was out of action for repairs. Note the traditional mode of delivery - the hand cart, and the simit seller's colourful wagon (simit are a delicious sesame-seed topped bread ring)

İstiklal Caddesi 5 - San Antonio di Padua

İstanbul or northern Italy? This Franciscan church was founded here in 1725; the presebt church dates from 1913. A cool and quiet haven for a rest on a hot
İstanbul day.

Pope John XXIII, pope from 1958 to 1963 preached in this church for 10 years while he was The Vatican's Ambassador to Turkey.

İstiklal Caddesi 4 - Balık Pazar (Fish market)

Down Sahne Sokak, off
İstiklal is the heart of the area's fish market.

İstiklal Caddesi 3

Down one of the side streets just off İstiklal. We used to buy ham and other pork-based products at one of the vendors along here.

İstiklal Caddesi 2 - knife sharpener

A knife sharpener at work.

A stroll down İstiklal Caddesi 1

I love the contrast in this shot between the modernised cafe on the right and the more traditional wooden building on the left.

When we lived in İstanbul, we often used to visit İstiklal Cad on our days off. We used to stroll down here, and stop for lunch, usually at a restaurant called Vesuvio, which served pizzas and Italian food. It seems to have disappeared now.

This was also before the trams were brought back, although it was a pedestrian only street.

Sometimes we went to movies in the cavernous old picture palaces, especially during the Istanbul International Film Festival.

İstiklal means "Independence", so this is Independence Avenue. In former days it was known as the Grand Rue de Pera, and was the place to be seen in European
İstanbul. grandually many of the grand buildings became dilapidated and run down, and decidedly less than salubrious. However, as in many cities, the process of renewal and gentrification has brought new life to
İstiklal Cad. once more.

So, today and in coming days, some of the sights along İstiklal Cad., May 2006.

Coming back

I lived in Istanbul in 1990 - 1991, having previously visited in 1989. This trip back during May 2005 was the first since I left in July 1991. Flying in from Barcelona, the plane travelled the length of the Bosporus and back to Ataturk airport, in the southern part of the city on the European side. It was very emotional flying in to a city I had such good memories of.